It may not be optimal, but I'm going to try some decent quality aluminized mylar. The final detail is an internal reflector. That's why I want to avoid using stars on these LEDs. But it still acts as a diffuser, blending together the colors, with uniformity dependent on how close I can get the LEDs together. I've already verified the ChromaLit will pass these two colors without conversion. Efficiency isn't so important either, so cheap no-name LEDs will be used. Not much power is needed in relation to royal blue, so 1W LEDs will more than suffice. These will fill in the two biggest gaps in the spectrum produced by the ChromaLit, increasing both CRI and PAR. Between each Cree will be two other LEDs, one cyan and one deep red. Since these will indirectly produce most of the light, I'm choosing 5W Cree XT-E for high efficiency, which will be pre-mounted on stars for good heat transfer and long life. Inside the channel, I'll be mounting royal blue LEDs, at 2" center-to-center spacing. This converts royal blue light to white, with a 4,000°K color temperature, and CRI of 80. Into the open face of the channel, I'll be mounting ChromaLit remote phosphor. As structure and heatsinking, I'll be using 1" square aluminum U-channel. It will be placed where it can be viewed directly, so I don't want any blinding points of light, or for it to appear excessively multicolored. I'm trying to build some LED lighting with both relatively high CRI (color rendering index) and PAR (photosynthetically active radiation). Suggestions? - Here's some more information on the project in case you're interested. On the plus side I'll be running these LEDs at no more than 0.5W each, on the minus side that thermal pad sure is a small contact area. I have some cheap thermal tape from Ebay which will ensure electrical insulation, but given the included warning "don't use this for a CPU or GPU, you will fry it", I'm not sure this would be sufficient for a bead LED either. However if they don't, I'm not sure what to do. If they happen to be insulated, then I'm set, I can just use thermal glue. Unfortunately that detail is not listed for the LEDs I'll be ordering. The thermal pad is trickier, as I've read that some LEDs have an electrically insulated pad, and some don't. The question is, how? I can easily insulate the anode/cathode leads from the aluminum with Kapton tape. But I bet I'm going to have to mount the LEDs directly to my aluminum U-channel. If another PCB exists more suited for my goal, I'd appreciate a tip. Example LED: Common single-LED stars are too big, and result in the LEDs being spaced too far apart. I want to mount a bunch bead LEDs in sets of two, with the two LEDs in each set as close together as possible.
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